Sinon, y'a moyen de se faire soi-même son enduit pour vraiment pas cher.
Voici un texte (j'ai le PDF en anglais dispo par email) que j'ai capturé y'a longtemps sur le net. Je m'en inspire pour ma propre mixture. Bien moins cher que ce qui est disponible en boutiques spécialisées et au moins aussi efficace. J'ai traité ma veste D4 avec un mélange assez similaire, c'est très bien.
fab
Yeah, I know…nobody wears linseed/wax-impregnated cotton “oilskins” any more…they wear
Goretex.
Well, that’s not entirely true. Those of us in the sawmill and lumber trade do, as do many
loggers and heavy construction workers. Why? Muscling around hundred-pound planks of
rough lumber wear through expensive Goretex in a matter of weeks…even the heavy-duty
Carhartt or GI Goretex.
Wearing PVC raingear while doing heavy labor in the rain and mud merely postpones your
soaking…work for long enough in it and you soak from the inside. Goretex and traditional
oilskins both breathe enough to postpone that soaking much longer.
And while waxed cotton in lighter weights has always been popular in Britain, it’s largely gone
gone over here. With the Yuppification of Eddie Bauer and L.L. Bean, who both used to
manufacture their own distinctive gear, Filson of Seattle remains the only major manufacturer
of this type of rugged work or expedition wear. And now Filson’s major market also seems to
be suburbanites who want that distinctive “Northwest” look these days. Filson’s gear hasn’t
changed since the Klondike Gold Rush, but the prices these days are Starbucks-high. But
measuring cost per year of wear instead of merely purchase price still makes them the best
value for some trades. The way to beat those prices these days is to buy seconds and used
garments on Ebay.
Once a year these garments need their finishes renewed, and that’s what we’ll do today. But
not with the 8-dollar, 2-ounce tins of oil and paraffin wax blend sold in stores…we’d go broke
quick using those and will make a whole gallon of an even better finish today.
Three of several family garments above that need work today are readied. A hooded tin coat,
a pair of old tin double-faced pants that look like leather…the “character” the garment has
gained in use. Well, folks…salesmen may call it “character”, but it’s really a vintage blend of
old sawdust, rotted forest duff and Shelton Gravelly Loam worked deep into wax and cloth as
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these garments can’t be washed. Next to them is a tin coat off of Ebay for the youngest son
that had been machine washed by some misguided soul and will need a good bit of solution
to renew. Prep is merely a stiff brush and a strong blast from a cold water hose to remove
the bulk of the mud.
Shown above are a new, empty gallon paint can with lid and some of the materials we’ll use.
A visit to Al Stedman the local beekeeper netted 5 pounds of beeswax at 4 dollars a pound.
This is a much better choice than petroleum-based paraffin…just make sure you get the
beekeeper wax and not waste your money on the 12-dollar a pound food-grade beeswax.
Yours doesn’t have to be that clean...even if you do like to chew it…the natural impurities of
the hive are probably good for you. You’ll also need a gallon of raw (never boiled) linseed, a
can of pine tar, a can of turps, and I’m going to substitute some pure orange oil for some of
the linseed to improve the aroma these garments bring to the home…especially after a bit of
diesel fuel is slopped on them in minor refueling mishaps. Can’t find a can of pine tar
anywhere? Your local farrier, large-animal Vet or farm supply will have it…it’s still used on
horses’ hooves as a dressing.
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Rig a large double boiler…this one is a large pail of water stuffed in a kerosene space heater.
I prefer to do this outdoors, both for safety (our mixture is flammable) and to test the
consistency of my wax brew in the actual temperatures it will function in. Simply set your stir
stick down for a while and check how hard your solution gets outdoors.
Into the can goes a quart of linseed, a little turps to thin, and two to three pounds of
beeswax shavings after the water boils and the oil gets hot. The easiest way I know to render
hard blocks of beeswax into shavings is on the shaving horse with drawknife…makes short
work of it. It takes a while for the oil mixture to heat sufficiently to thoroughly melt all the
wax, so be patient. When the wax melts, I add a half cup of pine tar and fill the gallon can
about two inches from the top with more linseed…my orange oil fragrance enhancer going in
last.
Proportions aren’t critical…more wax nets you better water resistance and greater garment
wear…but also more stiffness. More linseed nets you the converse. The pine tar is there
because I was raised in a traditional boat yard and wood boat builders add pine tar to
everything…probably because Noah did. I believe it supples the hard wax some and gives it
staying power.
Application is simple…brush it on hot direct from the double boiler and play a heat gun over it
as you brush it deep into the cloth.
When complete, hang the coat up and go back over it with the heat gun to melt and smooth
any remaining surface residue….and you’re done.
Oh…and while you’re at it, do your work boots with the same brew…only much gentler with
the heat, please.
Sujet: Bon plan chez D4 (Lu 14034 fois)
