Bonjour à vous.
Je me permets un petit déterrage de ce sujet...
J'en ai une depuis quelques années et elle m'a toujours beaucoup intriguée et j'avoue jusqu'à il n'y a pas si longtemps que ça avoir toujours eu du mal à m'y faire.
Je l'ai reprise en main et tenter de comprendre le pourquoi de mon "insatisfaction"...
En très cours, j'ai:
- repris l'émouture en relevant légèrement sa hauteur tout en respectant le profil plat scandinave: (donc émouture toujours scandi mais avec un angle un peu plus ferme.)
et
- refais un manche completement avec un profil différent détaillé plus bas, en hêtre, plus dense et solide que le bouleau qui marque en effet facilement...
Ici je vous mets une copie d'un mail "feedback" que j'avais envoye a Mr Roselli La dessus... C'est en anglais, desole, mais c'est pas d'un gros niveau...
"
Mr Roselli, hi.
I send you this mail for giving you some feedback concerning your axe i have in my possession since few years, and that i am using with a lot of pleasure as a simple carver/bushcrafter hobbyist.
This short feedback is quite convergent with a bunch of other feedbacks monitored in the net and/or coming from direct exchange with other people.
- The axe is a very effective and precise carver/planer allowing obtaining of planks, conical tips for poles, dowels, and shape comprising convexe or concave (in a reasonable value) radius (tipically large spoon or plate). Easy and pleasant to have in hands close or directly under the head.
- Used for a more general purpose in woods, it is a wonderfull splitter, indeed, with these particularity to never be stucked in wood, i confirm... i tried with pine, chesnut, oak, birch, the result is positively the same: good splitting effect and not prone to be blocked.
- Used for limbing, felling small tree (5-15 cm diameter) or cutting, it is also good and functional, at the condition to not have a too small grazing incidence angle, between the main medium plan of the blade and the surface to be attacked. The depth of impact is quite good if a good range of attack angle incidence is respected. Said depth is perhaps a bit less important than with more classical limbing/cutting shape of axe as what is provided by Gransfors or Watterling, and so on... but your axe removes with each hit a quite impressive chunk/block of wood by alternating angle of attack, hit after hit. The range of attack angle has nevertheless to be respected, and is quite narrow.
- The hammer is very convenient for punching haring wood for tent or dowels or whatever in this sense.
- Used as a scratcher/scrapper, it seems to provide a good capability with a ''ulu'' manipulation quite convenient.
- For maintenance , sharpening with a flat water stone is very pleasant, but quite long if the edge of the blade is really blunt/dull... In this sense, it is important to maintain regularly the axe sharp for avoiding too laborious sharpening sessions... Somehow, it is a conventional way of doing for working properly, whatever the tool is...
- Concerning the pure ergonomy and handle, balance is good, hand feeling very pleasant for carving or cutting/limbing... the cinetic nergy seems to be well transmitted from the arm to the piece of wood to be cut, without noticeable unpleasant vibrations.
- The wood of the handle is nevertheless very soft and can damage quite easily, during splitting session, especially with a hard wood having a non rectiligne grain/fiber: the simple brutal cntact between the wood to be split and the side parts of the handle, close to the head, is sufficient to create repetitive damages.
Globally it is a very nice tool but perhaps, not the best for a first tool provided to a true wood worker beginner... It need time to acclimate and use with pleasure and some efficiency this axe.
I reasonably guess that you are aware about this kind of feedback and know perfectly this remarks from other customers.
What i would like to underline in the following part of this mail is some modifications i brought to my exemplar in order to fit closer to my need and use truly this good tool.
- On my personnal and subjective by nature point of view, the axe is definitively well designed for wood carving, carpentry, on the field or in workshop, and functional for more general camping/outdoor activities.
- Being also a camper, i tried nevertheless to imagine some modifications to bring to my exemplar in order to balance a bit more the bi-valence or the ''double face'' of this axe...
- First of all, i tried to imagine to grind the head in order to make narrower the angle of the edge, but after consideration, i decided to give up this idea because it would degradate the carving ability of this axe (hand will be easily disturbed by the proximity of wood surface to be, for instance, planed), its splitting efficiency, without a really noticeable advantage for limbing/cutting/falling down small trees.
- I finally decided to put my effort in modifying the handle of your axe: in this sense i replace it by a longuer handle (i am quite fond of axe with ''light'' head and long handle: less weight, but more speed for said head).
- I chosed to have a shape/design quite close to the traditionnal finnish axe Billnas. it gives for me the possibility to increase the splitting efficiency of the axe, while maintaining the capability to work precisely, and improve also a bit the cutting/limbing efficiency.
The wood chosen is beech which is a bit harder and denser than birch, in a sense, less fragile.
The cross section of the handle close to the head is very ellipsoidal and finer at the lower part of the handle close to the head, in order to minimize contact cross section between the handle and the wood to split.
In this mail, in attached files (first set of pictures in this mail, second set in the following mail), you should see some pictures of the axe with its new handle. One of these pictures (named "working grips") illustrates 3 ''typical'', but not straight systematic (it is more 3 tendancies depending of plenty of external factors), ways i like to hold this axe:
- the green way/area is the holding/gripping area for precise carving work.
- the red way/area is more adapted for limbing/cutting operations.
- the blue way/area is more adapted for providing a maximum of energy for splitting operations, the shape of this part, a bit like a funnel/dumbell, provides a sort of quite confortable ''cradle'' for the hand.
Red and blue way/area can overlap if necessary, especially if there is a need for some maimum energy for limbing/cutting operation.
Said type of modifications gives a new total lengh of 47 cm (which allows to work with 2 hands if requested) easily still transportable in a standart back-pack, slightly heavier, but i did not do measurement, and it moves back the barycenter of the axe of 2.5-3 cm from its original position, without no (not yet) noticeable drawback for carving session.
I am aware that there is a big chance you already, deeper and more sorrowly than me, studied this kind of variations. Therefore, i would like to ask to you if this kind of ''customisation'' were already considered by you, as the father and designer of this tool, and if not, for which technical reasons?
This mail has absolutely no more pretention than trying humbly to bring to you a personnel feedback and some potential suggestions if the line of your axe would be submitted in the future to some updating/evolution. I stay tuned for any kind of remarks from your part concerning this ''customisation'' and its pertinence.
Anyway, thank you very much for your impressive and beautiful work in general, and nowday for your patience for reading my mail. While waiting with pleasure your reply and explanations.
Best regards."
L'idée étant de rendre cette hache un peu plus polyvalente, plus apte à travailler vraiment à 2 mains si nécessaire, un brin plus pénétrante à la coupe tout en gardant son pouvoir de fendeus si caractéristique... en restant transportable et utilsable en couteau alternatif...
Je reste à l'usage satisfait des modifs réalisées, et redécouvre cette hachette avec de nouveaux yeux et beaucoup de plaisir...
Niveau sécurité, cette hache est un peu "pointue" car si l'angle d'attaque est trop rasant, la hache peut riper et rebondire facilement... il faut rester rigoureux quand au respect de ce fameux angle d'attaque " à 45 °"... Bref un coup à prendre et à driller... rien d'anormal quelque soit l'outil considéré en fait...
Si ca peut donner quelques idées.
Ici, la réponse recue de chez Roelli...
Oui, mais court et vague:
"Hello Stephane,
thank you for your message. We do take all feedback seriously so let´s
see what´s going to happen...
The handle of axes are made of birch because it´s the only possible wood
material wich grows in Finland. Not the best you can think of but quite
good anyway...
Yours, Kari from Roselli"
j'espère avoir un retour un peu plus fouillé... je pense que le produit de base est vraiment bon, plein de potentiel, mais comme tout, ca mérite d'évoluer de façon un peu "darwinesque", de ne pas rester figer sur une formule unique, si bonne soit-elle...
à+,
Lambda
à+,
Sujet: Roselli 850 (Lu 23626 fois)
